Paul Smith SS13 Paris

Bringing a welcome slice of England to the Paris Fashion Week schedule, Paul Smith presented a spring/summer '13 collection of bold colours, sharp dissected prints, and elegant masculine tailoring.

It was a typically youthful collection from the 66 year old, with strong colour featuring in every outfit. A series of rich, sensual reds started the proceedings and were later softened by dusty rose, apricot and mustard, plus the occasional flash of electric blue.

Yet, while the colour choice was lively and vibrant, it acted more as the garnish for a fantastic range of sharp modern tailoring, which dominated and defined the show. Jackets came in either a slim one-button cut or refined double-breasted style, both looking light and youthful. Shoulders were subtly padded to provide shape without bulk, while on the lower half the trousers were similarly slim yet structured, with innovative seams and pleats that, in places, encompassed the front belt loop.

Paul has always had a fantastic way of blending Savile Row craft with a childlike playfulness, and the moment when a series of 5, 6, 7, of these coloured suits appeared in quick succession was the focal point of the show, delighting with an unpretentious playschool charm.

Yet, while this sharp modern suiting was the main course, there were a number of other interesting entrées to amuse the palate. The now obligatory print pieces took the form of sliced roses and sharp silver scissors, while more visual texture was added by black and white polka dot accessories. A series of short biker jackets were also worthy of mention, as was a panelled leather bomber jacket in various dusty pastel shades.

According to Paul the watchword for this collection was "optimism". In gloomy economic times and, in Britain at least, the wettest summer in 100 years we could do with a little of that. Paul's vivacious suiting provided it, now all we have to do is kill time until spring 2013.