KITSUNÉ: JAPAN, PARIS AND BEYOND
The story of Kitsuné blurs the line between
myth and reality. It starts with the name.
From Japanese mythology, a Kitsune is a
shape-shifting fox spirit blessed with superior
intelligence and wisdom. Compounding this, a
contemporary myth surrounds the founding of
Kitsuné the label. As legend has it, the two
Kitsuné founders met in Japan while working
with the fabled Daft Punk to create their
anime masterpiece, Interstella 5555.
Nearly a decade after its founding and Kitsuné
is now a cultural behemoth. Mixing a world-renowned
record label with a fashion house of growing repute,
Kitsuné continue to blur boundaries and propagate
their own myth.
We caught up with the men behind the label,
Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki, to uncover some
of the mystery.
Mark | oki-ni: Hi Gildas and Masaya. For a huge Francophile who grew up loving Daft Punk and Kitsuné you both seem like mythical figures! Is it true that you met in Japan while making Daft Punk’s Interstella 5555? And could you call this time the “true” founding of Kitsuné?
Gildas Loaëc: It was definitely the true founding of Kitsuné.
I was working with Daft Punk and we brought Masaya with us to Japan because we wanted to feel independent from the record company. Masaya spoke Japanese and French so he was the perfect guide for us. He also understood style, which many translators do not.
It was during this time in Japan that we got to know each other, while exploring interesting stores and discovering Harajuku culture and style. We looked at all the press and crazy magazines they have over there and felt this was defiantly something that should be done in a more “lifestyle” way.
Mark | oki-ni: Japan has influenced Kitsuné from day one, from the name of the brand up. What is it about Japan that caught your imagination?
Gildas: We saw in Japan the opportunity to combine both the activities we are passionate about: to make a good music label with a nice clothing line and make it viable. People there were more open minded in a certain sense and they are also great consumers.
But being in Japan also helped us realise that it’s not enough to be stylish, you have to also have depth; Japanese people love real and authentic things.
We needed to create a proper musical label and a proper clothes line. Not play at it, but really do it.
Mark | oki-ni: I get the impression that you both appreciate quality regardless of discipline or genre – a great pop song is the same as a really special piece of clothing. Would you agree?
Gildas: We are a small and young label, so in order for us grow and last it’s important that we care about details and quality, yes. Word of mouth must be positive!
Mark | oki-ni: But personally, when I think of Kitsuné the record label I think of bright, contemporary pop music. People often accuse pop of being disposable and throwaway, yet Kitsuné clothing is very classic and traditional in style. Do you see a conflict there?
Gildas: We look for classic songs that will touch people through generations and the same is true of our clothes - we are looking for classic pieces. Obviously it is a goal and we are doing our best to get there.
Also, pop music can be classic. It can be a tune you are happy to listen over and over again. For me, our band Two Door Cinema Club are writing classic pop tunes that are great quality.
Mark | oki-ni: You recently opened a new shop, Kitsuné Parisien. I read that it was burgled shortly after, is that true?
Gildas: It is. Our Parisian artist friend André drew a ‘Monsieur A’ on the brand new window of Kitsuné Parisien to celebrate the opening. Then some guys came at night and stole the window! They cut a big piece out and robbed our Monsieur A.
Mark | oki-ni: Wow! You must have a higher class of criminal in Paris compared to London. But, crime aside, what is it about Paris that resonates with you both so strongly? Why live and work there rather than anywhere else?
Gildas: Paris is the centre of the world isn't it? It’s the most romantic city in the world?
We live in Paris and, yes, and we love Paris a lot, but I think that it is challenging city in terms of fashion. Every self-respecting brand should aim to open a store Paris to earn international recognition and prove they can survive and stand out against such big competition.
And for music, there is so much creativity here. Although, saying that, it was only this year that we signed a French band, House De Racket, for the first time!
Mark | oki-ni: Thinking about the clothing label, how did the style of Kitsuné develop? Who were your influenced by and what were you trying to achieve?
Masaya Kuroki: Basically, I love Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Gitman Brothers, etc. – all very American brands from the 60s East Coast. All my influences are from there, but each season certain films or certain periods inspire my creations, sparking ideas for strong pieces or collections.
Mark | oki-ni: But if Kitsuné is inspired, as you say, by American classics of the 50s and 60s, how does this marry with your proudly-French ethos?
Masaya: It’s based on the French who travelled around the USA in the 60s and fell in love with the unique American Elegance of the East Coast.
Mark | oki-ni: And is there one piece from this season that you would say typifies this style?
Masaya: The light blue striped flap-pocket, button-down shirt, for sure. This is, kind of, our basic piece and it’s an interpretation of classic 50s shirt with a modern fit.
Hopefully a new-classic!
Mark | oki-ni: As a multi-disciplinary label - encompassing fashion, music and art – what is your experience of the relationship between those different forms?
Thinking specifically of fashion, do music and film influence your clothing design at all?
Masaya: In general terms, an influential bit of music or film can reflect certain realities that musicians or directors are trying to get across – their feelings or point of view.
Personally, each season I have different “moods of creation”, which can sometimes match with several songs and films.
To create a successful record label
is one thing, and to found a fashion
house is yet another. But to do
both together and have the two
ventures feed off each other and
thrive is something very
special indeed.
Gildas and Masaya continue to build
their Kitsuné empire, which expands
in every direction. We are excited
and intrigued to see which way
they decide to go next.
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