Christopher Kane Interview

CHRISTOPHER KANE: THE MAN MACHINE

Alongside Jonathan Anderson and Christopher Shannon, Christopher Kane is one of the names in British fashion who promises substance and longevity. The Scottish designer is obviously a man of great talent and skill, and his limited excursions into menswear have displayed great signs of promise, with him turning out exceptional print pieces with mechanical regularity.

We grabbed five minutes with the famously camera shy designer in the hectic run-up to London Fashion Week to talk about his current spring/summer collection, his Scottish roots, and the enduring appeal of the 90s.

Plus, this interview is part of a full Christopher Kane takeover of oki-ni for London Fashion Week. Make sure you also view our latest STYLED and MIX, both produced by two of Christopher's regular collaborators.

Ahead of London Fashion Week the question on the lips of fashion devotees in London and across the globe is "what can we expect from Christopher Kane?"

"I prefer to give as little away as possible", he replies coyly. "I like the idea of people being surprised by my work". And who could blame him. Magic tends to lose its wonder if you're allowed to see behind the curtain. Yet Christopher's has been a career of pleasant surprises and while he originally made his name in womenswear – an area that we at oki-ni appreciate as interested outsiders – Christopher's recent adventures into menswear have become more frequent and more considered as each season passes.

In previous years the menswear seemed something of an afterthought – a continuation of themes within the women's collections. Not that this was a problem. No one who got their hands on one of the stunning astronomy print pieces from last summer would complain about a lack of originality. In fact, the story was that men's versions of these early print pieces were only produced at the insistence of Christopher's male friends

who adored his womenswear and begged him to be let in on the fun.

At first this sole focus on womenswear came from a lack of resources. To cut a long story short, there wasn't enough Christopher to go around. "At this moment in time I am focussed on womenswear as this is where I started and what I am known for. I have been building my brand for the last 5 years and intend to be in business for the rest of my life. Naturally, as I grow I will want the brand to grown into other areas, such as menswear and accessories. The challenge at the moment is finding the time and resources to do it correctly."

This season's collection suggests that Christopher is beginning to take on that challenge, as suits, biker jackets, and a miscellany of other pieces joined the signature prints to create a more rounded collection. But how does this move from harmony to discord between men's and women's collections alter his outlook? "I like the idea of them being united, however if I feel like I want to diverge from this I don't feel restricted. This was the case for the mechanics prints I did in

spring/summer '12, as it just felt like the right thing to do."

Following instincts that have served him so well since he graduated from Saint Martins in 2006, Christopher is a designer not afraid to swim against the current. Perhaps this rebellious impulse can be traced back to his Scottish roots?

"I think that being Scottish has helped me to stay grounded and instilled and work ethic in me", observes Christopher. Similarly, growing up in an area famed for its craft also ensured that when Christopher created his own clothing, he could not settle for second best. "I love the heritage and craftsmanship in Scotland and have always had my cashmere produced there."

But while his Scottish heritage is certainly echoed in elements of his work, an interest and talent was obviously innate. Stories of Saturday nights spent with his auntie, decorating the outlines of dresses that she had lovingly hand drawn for him sound like fanciful scenes from an as-yet-unmade Christopher Kane biopic - Rags to Riches: The Christopher Kane

Story - but they gave early clues as to the direction he would take.

Christopher also recalls how his family would gather in the living room on a Sunday afternoon to watch The Clothes Show, and then when Sky was installed in the Kane household, Christopher's eyes were opened to the runways of Europe and beyond - Paris, Milan, and New York. The seed was sewn.

Today Christopher finds himself based in the heart of Dalston - the home of the hipster. Yet, for all its flaws, Dalston is an area with real fashion pedigree. It has been a countercultural craft workshop since the 80s when creative legends such as shoe maker John Moore, designer Christopher Nemeth, and stylist Judy Blame called it home. But what is it about the area that appeals people today? Christopher offered some insight.

"Dalston is full of colourful characters that cannot help but inspire you. I think that this has increased in the time that I have been here. I think the extreme mix of people, culture and fashion makes it so special."

A short walk down Kingsland Road will soon have you agreeing with him, but Christopher cannot be easily lumped together with East London's other fashion designers just by virtue of a postcode. He has always gone his own way.

For example, while much of Christopher's work is obviously rooted in the aesthetic of the 90s, inspired by images that were drip fed into his consciousness via the family TV at a young age, he refuses to be constrained by it those influences. "I grew up in the 80s and 90s, so I think that is why I may have referenced it in the past. But truthfully I can be excited about something from almost any period. It just depends on what frame of mind you are in.'

A similar pattern emerges when we quizzed Christopher about his uncanny ability to turn out stunning prints - "It just comes down to what I am feeling like at the time". It just so happens that what Christopher is feeling usually turns out to be right on the money. And, true to form, just has he seems to have found a winning formula he is happy to abandon it. We asked if he was planning a similar series of prints for next season. "I

have just produced a collection for AW12 where I have moved away from the digital prints to flocking in different colours. I just like to change and offer something new and interesting." No doubt as well as being different, new, and interesting, this new creation will be exactly what we are all looking for come autumn/winter.

SHOP spring/summer Christopher Kane here.